Brazil Unfiltered
Rio de Janeiro – Ilha Grande – Sierra dos Órgãos – Iguazu Falls
This trip is not currently scheduled for year 2018. Next trip will probably take place in the Spring or Fall 2019. Please, contact me for updates. If you'd like to organize your own trip to Brazil, here is a good link with information: https://www.jenreviews.com/best-things-to-do-in-brazil/
Why unfiltered? Nope, it's not about the beer. Even though Brazil has amazing beer, and it is divinely combined with an evening view of the ocean. And nope, it's not a photo-tour. Even though there’s plenty to photograph in Brazil, with filters or without them.
The “Brazil Unfiltered” is Brazil as it is. Not through the window of a tourist bus or multi-star hotel. In this journey we will ride on public transport, dine at local eateries, where the food is great, but waiters don’t speak English, listen to live music and watch dancing Brazilians. We’ll do a lot of walking, swimming and mountain climbing. We’ll get acquainted with local animals and birds, explore the abundant coastal vegetation. And of course, we will see all the main attractions of Rio de Janeiro and the famous Iguazu Falls.
The route passes along the south-eastern part of the country and includes:
- White beaches of the famous Ilha Grande
- Climbing Papagaio (Parrot) peak
- Rio de Janeiro: Christ the Redeemer statue, Sugarloaf Mountain, Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, the botanical gardens, Pedra de Gávea - the highest peak of the city
- A three-day hike in the Sierra dos Órgãos - one of the most beautiful trekking routes in Brazil
- Iguazu Falls from Brazil and Argentina.
A route map can be found here.
Day 1, Saturday
Arrive at Rio de Janeiro and meet the team.
By bus or taxi we'll get to the famous Ipanema beach district. There we shall stay for the next three days.
In the evening we'll take a tram to the heart of Rio, Lapa district, famous for its bars, restaurants and night life. Here we can have dinner, listen to live music and watch the samba dancers.
Return by taxi.
Day 2, Sunday
We get up early and ride to Mount Corcovado*, on top of which stands the statue of Christ the Redeemer - Rio de Janeiro’s business card. The complex is located at the heart of Tijuca forest, where you can meet with some monkeys if you are lucky. But no luck will, unfortunately, help us avoid the crowds at the base of the statue. We will descend from the mountain on foot (1.5 - 2 hours).
The second half of the day we'll spend in the Botanical Gardens**. It is a beautiful collection of tropical and subtropical plants, including the flora of the Amazon. We will see a pond with giant water lilies, as well as collections of orchids, cacti, Araceae and carnivorous plants. Botanical Gardens are home to many species of birds and animals, including marmosets.
In the evening we’ll take a stroll along the beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema, and see a monument to the famous Brazilian composer, creator of the bossa nova style - Tom Jobim. It was he who wrote the song "Garota de Ipanema" (Girl from Ipanema).
*We'll have to take the weather into account. Some elements of the itinerary might switch places
**In case of inclement weather or special interest in the group we can visit the Maracana stadium. Even if you're not too fond of soccer, it might be interesting to see how Brazilians love it!
Day 3, Monday
Not later than 8 am we’re going to the Sugarloaf Mountain. This is the second iconic peak of Rio de Janeiro, which can be seen on half of postcards and photographs. A cable car will take us to the top. Sugarloaf has stunning views of Rio and the surrounding beaches, international airport, where every now and then an aircraft goes to land, and the mount Pedra da Gávea. There we shall go next.
Pedra da Gávea is a rock monolith towering 842 meters above the Atlantic Ocean. It is located on the territory of Tijuca Forest (like Corcovado). There are a lot of legends and horror stories about this cliff. It is said that there are carvings in some ancient language on one of the stone slopes. And that in fact it's not a natural rock at all, but a giant statue of the Sphinx, built by the Phoenicians at the burial place of king Badezir (9th century BC). And that the spirit of the ancient ruler comes to the surface now and then to scare the hell out of careless climbers. Some even say that the rock is nothing less but one of the portals to the mystic Shambhala. Brazilian folk legends claim that the mount is the head of a sleeping giant who wandered through the local forests thousands of years ago. But whatever it is, we should climb up and investigate!
A steep trail goes through the jungle, and then there is a short area of scrambling on the rocks (can be managed without a rope). The climb is strenuous and takes about 6 hours. We might have to descend in the dark, so don’t forget a headlamp. This will be our first test of endurance. But the view from the top of Pedra da Gávea is recognized as the best view of Rio de Janeiro. From here you can capture in one photo both Corcovado and Sugarloaf, and the Rock of Two Brothers (Morro Dois Irmãos).
Day 4, Tuesday
This morning we’ll have some time to sleep. At noon we go to the bus station Novo Rio. From there our bus departs at 13:00 to take us to a small harbor town Conceição de Jacareí. The trip will take about 2.5-3 hours. Upon arrival at the harbor (which looks, I must admit, pretty wild) we’ll get on a motor boat to Ilha Grande.
Ilha Grande is a wildlife sanctuary, where transport is prohibited (except for boats), there is no industry and only a few settlements (mainly for tourists). The island is covered with Atlantic rainforest and is one of the richest ecosystems in the world. Ilha Grande is also famous for its beautiful white sand beaches. Here we will spend the next three days. We will stay at a campground in tents. Brazilian campgrounds are specific, but quite ok to stay in. There are toilets, showers, kitchen and electricity.
In the biggest settlement of the island - Abrao village - there are several restaurants, which serve delicious fish and seafood caught right here, off the coast of Ilha Grande. I especially recommend fish with mango sauce!
Day 5, Wednesday
Today we will walk to one of the most beautiful beaches of Ilha Grande - Lopez Mendez. It is covered with white sand that is so fine, it squeaks underfoot, like snow. Be very careful with cameras and phones, the sand tends to get into the smallest cavities, like ports and lenses!
The path to Lopez Mendez goes through the jungle and takes at least two hours each way. If the weather has been wet the day before, the trail becomes slippery with mud, and trekking poles will come in very handy. Best shoes - sandals that you do not care much about. Solid shoes will be very difficult to wash and dry.
On the way through the jungle you can hear monkeys, see squirrels and lizards. There are also sea turtles, dolphins, whales, penguins, caimans, marmosets and sloths on or around Ilha Grande. But we need to be very lucky to spot those.
We can return by boat.
Day 6, Thursday
Today we will climb the dominant mountain of Ilha Grande - Pico do Papagaio (Parrot Peak). This is the most difficult trail on the island with altitude gain of 985 meters. The peak got its name for its looks - like a bird's head, especially at sunset, when only the silhouette of the summit is visible against the purple sky. Total trekking time is 7-10 hours, so we’ll need to leave early and take along enough water and headlamps. The nature of the trail is similar to what we saw yesterday. Before the very top there is a section where a rope might be used for safer scrambling.
From the top of Parrot's Peak in fine weather one can see Rio de Janeiro, Pedra da Gávea and Dedo de Deus (God's finger), the most famous peak of the Sierra dos Órgãos (Organ Mountains), where we will head soon.
Dinner in the campground or in one of the less expensive restaurants of the village.
Day 7, Friday
A day for relaxation or a spare day in case of bad weather. If we climbed Parrot Peak according to plan (yesterday), then on this day we can go to any other beach of the island, on foot or by boat. For example, within walking distance lies Dois Rios beach (1.5-2 hours). By boat we can get to a series of remote beaches: Aventureiro, Praia do Sul, Praia Leste, or even the Blue Lagoon islands (no, not the ones where the famous film was shot, but quite similar).
Day 8, Saturday
Leaving the island: boat and bus to Rio (10:30 - 13:00). There we change to another bus and go to the city of Petropolis (1.5 hours away).
Petropolis is called the imperial capital of Brazil. The town was named after the last emperor - Pedro II. In the 19th century there was his summer residence. There are many rich houses and several museums, including the House Stefan Zweig. In the evening, if time permits, we will walk these streets. The mountain climate is favorable for agriculture, and in the early 19th century German farmers arrived to settle here. The atmosphere and architecture Petropolis is very different from the coastal Rio de Janeiro. People here are more reserved, neat, hardworking and in general - richer.
We’ll check into a pousada (traditional form of guest accommodation in Brazil, something like a European B&B), walk through the city, have dinner and get ready for the trekking. Petropolis is home to the Bohemia brewery which makes excellent Brazilian beer!
Day 9, Sunday
The beginning of our traverse between the cities of Petropolis and Teresopolis through the mountains of the Sierra dos Órgãos. This trail is recognized as one of the most beautiful in Brazil. If Petropolis is named in honor of Emperor Pedro II, Teresopolis - in honor of his wife, Teresa Cristina. Therefore, the route connecting the two cities is sometimes referred to as "the emperor’s trek."
Today we climb though the usual jungle and cliffs. From the highest point of the route we’ll see vistas of the Sierra dos Órgãos, which literally translates as “mountains of body parts” or “organs”. There are a lot of bizarre rock monoliths: Finger of God, Devil's Needle, Our Lady’s Finger, Monk's nose (with a wart), Fish Head and other peaks resembling one or another part of a body ... See for yourself!
No later than 8 am (preferably 7) we have to be at the entrance to the park (Bonfim gate). The hiking time for today is 7-9 hours, 8 km. The trail goes through the woods, then serpentines uphill and then again slowly goes through the woods, crossing streams and dry river beds. When the forest ends, a long ascent begins. The first section – approach of the Cheese Stone (1630m). Then the climb continues to a broad and long plateau, which will lead us to the overnight campsite - Morro do Açú (2216m).
We pitch tents, find water and cook dinner. If the night is clear, soon thousands of southern stars will light up the sky, and in the distance - the golden lights of Rio.
Day 10, Monday
Early rise. Those who manage to get up at dawn will be rewarded with a view of sunrise above the clouds. We leave the camp no later than 8 am. The hiking distance today is 7 km, 7-9 hours. We will have steep descents and ascents, some will require using iron clamps and ropes (just to hold onto with hands, without any special equipment). The whole day we will be at an altitude of over 2000m. Along the way we will summit Morro da Luva, the second highest point of Sierra dos Órgãos (2263m). And we end the day in the camp at the top of Pedra do Sino - the highest point of the range (2275m). It will be an intense day.
Day 11, Tuesday
Today we descend to the city of Teresopolis via a good path with great views of the mountains. The descent will take about 5-6 hours (13 km), so we need to head out early. Along the way we will see "Paper" and "Bridal Veil" waterfalls.
We’ll check into a pousada in Teresopolis, have some rest and go out to dinner. There are many delicious restaurants, including a great churrascaria - restaurant, where guests are treated to a variety of grilled meat. For a nominal fee you can have infinite portions: the waiters will bring and bring you meat until you raise a red flag indicating complete surrender!
Day 12, Wednesday
In the morning we take a bus to Rio de Janeiro airport. From there we fly to Foz do Iguaçu - Iguazu waterfalls capital. These falls are the largest system of waterfalls in the world. Compared to them the famous Niagara seems a toy!
We get to a hotel and rest.
Day 13, Thursday
This day will be devoted to exploring Iguazu waterfalls from Brazilian side. By wooden bridges we can go deep into the Devil's Throat - a narrow cleft into which a half of the waters of Iguazu River magnificently falls. After this walk there will hardly be a dry spot on you (so bring a change of clothes or rain gear).
We’ll also have a chance to communicate with funny animals - coati. Coati are very curious and friendly, unless teased with food. We’ll take pictures with tropical butterflies and visit a bird park where toucans, flamingos, hummingbirds and many other species live in an almost natural environment.
In the evening we’ll visit the confluence point of Iguazu and Parana rivers. From this spot you can see three states - Argentina, Paraguay and, of course, Brazil.
Night at a hotel.
Day 14, Friday
Today we go to Argentina to see the Iguazu Falls from the other side. There are even more spectacular views of the Devil's Throat plus several scenic walking paths.
Evening in the city of Foz do Iguaçu.
Day 15, Saturday
Morning flight to Rio and return home.
Who should go on this trip?
This trip is for adventurous people who are comfortable with uncertainty and possible deviations from schedule. After all, we will be travelling on public transport!
In terms of physical preparation the route is suitable for anyone leading an active lifestyle. Minimum trekking experience is desirable, but is not a prerequisite. However, keep in mind that we will always carry all of our belongings with (and on) us, also during the three-days trekking. Take only what you really need! The weight of a backpack should not exceed 20 kg for gents and 12-18 kg for ladies. If you have an acute fear of heights or any doubts about your physical condition and fitness level, please discuss them with me.
Gear list
Group gear (gas stove, rope, first aid kit) will be provided be the organizer. Participants will need a sufficiently warm sleeping bag and mat, a warm jacket, water- and windproof clothing, a backpack, trekking shoes and poles. The temperature in the mountains at this time of year may reach +5 C and on the coast +30 C. A detailed gear list, advice and assistance with choosing the right items will be provided!
Safety matters
Contrary to popular stereotypes, Brazil is quite a safe country. People are very friendly and always willing to help. Especially in small towns. In Rio de Janeiro, as in any large metropolis, crime exists. If you go in certain areas, showing off expensive cameras and jewelry, you can get into trouble. But if you’re smart enough to avoid this, Rio is no more dangerous than San Francisco.
Vaccinations
Visiting Brazil does NOT require special vaccinations, however, I do recommend that you get a Yellow Fever shot. More information can be found here.
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